I Wasn’t much more sophisticated when backpacking in my teens, but a recent budget trip to Mexico alerted me to the new generation of gap year backpackers, who are lugging around designer rucksacks full of incredibly sophisticated skincare regimes that take hours to apply at the beginning and end of a hard day’s sightseeing and spring break parties, along with their laptops and mobile phones. Back in the eighties I had thought a Post Restante letter from my parents every six months was intrusive enough.

Unlike me, Noella Gabriel, product designer for Elemis, was very skin aware from an early age. “1 would save up for my regular cleanser, always choosing a natural option from my local health shop,” she remembers. “Somehow I always had the appreciation that the face needed to be treated differently. I would shower from the neck down and never use soap on the face. It’s one of my golden rules, still to this day.”
Dr Howard Murad is another of today’s foremost experts when it comes to skincare. “As a general statement,” he says, “adolescents start to care for their skin when they see breakouts occur. Also, as they become more aware of the opposite sex, they are more interested in their appearance.”
But what is the optimum routine for kids and teens? Some advice suggests less is more for kids - even bathing babies too often can exacerbate the risk of their delicate skin developing complaints such as eczema. So just how young should they start, and how can you get them interested?
“The skin of most children has a more than adequate layer of fatty ‘padding’, which gives it a beautiful smooth appearance, often described as having the quality of purity.” says Dr Eileen Tan, consultant dermatologist
at Singapore’s Eileen Tan Skin, Laser and Hair Transplant Clinic. “All the functions are very active, and because the stratum corneum is functioning effectively the skin is very well hydrated. Indeed, by and large children’s skin is the healthiest we ever see. The skin does not need moisturising unless there is atopy or eczema, or after prolonged exposure to sun or sea, but regular protection against the sun should begin in childhood.”
“Babies as young as six months old can start wearing sun protection products,”agrees Murad. “It is vital to protect the skin from the sun at a young age as a majority of the damage we start to see in our thirties has occurred from sun exposure in childhood. When children are old enough to brush their teeth you can begin to teach them good skin hygiene habits, including washing their face and applying a sunscreen.”
He also encourages pre-teens to start a proper daily routine, citing cleansers, acne treatment and sunscreen as appropriate - as well as watching their diets. “If acne is a problem then addressing it internally is important as well. Good nutritional habits are equally important as topical cleansing. Taking a dietary supplement to encourage clear healthy skin is appropriate for a teen, as long as they feel comfortable swallowing vitamins and can be consistent.”
Routines should become more sophisticated during the teenage years advises Gabriel. “At 1 5, 1 6 and 1 7 years old, when hormones are at their peak and stress levels are high because of exams and a hectic social life, during all of this skincare must be managed. Everyone should be on a cleanser, toner, exfoliator, and day and night cream proscribed to suit their skin.” The trend of children using skincare has spawned a whole new bunch of product lines within the multi-billion skincare and beauty market, something that Simone Pedersen, international buyer for Lane Crawford, is seeing happen on the shop floor. “Adolescent girls as young as ten and 11 are becoming more and more interested in their skincare,” she says. “We find a younger generation in Faces now, shopping for the latest skincare products.”
While parents are more savvy about skincare themselves, a fact that is clearly rubbing off on the next generations, it’s not all just happening within the family unit. “It’s a global trend,” adds Pedersen. “Starting from increased education in schools about protecting your skin from the sun, young people are becoming far more involved in the preservation of their skin.”
However, there are still children that are reluctant to go to the bother of properly washing, toning and moisturising - in fact there are numerous adults whose skincare routine would cause these experts to wrinkle overnight in horror. So how can kids be
encouraged to take the time?
“When introducing teenagers to a beauty routine, remember to make it fun,” says Justine Grier, manager of The beautiful Skin Centre in Hong Kong. “Kids are all about fun, fun, fun and not about chores. The way you approach this will determine your children’s future commitment to their skincare routine. Introducing young teenagers to a basic Elemis Taster Facial (30 minutes of learning how to cleanse and take care of the skin) is a nice treat. Ask your therapist to chat to the young ones and explain things on their level. You will be amazed at how excited they will be to tell their friends and share their superior knowledge!”
And if you have any doubts about the regime your children are adopting, a visit to your local friendly spa for a consultation is the best thing. “Products should be used as prescribed, received through good consultation and supported by regular spa visits,” says Gabriel. “This is a much safer way of managing skin without investing in a huge amount of product with very little guidance. But it doesn’t have to be sophisticated. Keep it simple!”